This round-up has been sitting in my drafts for a little while, which is maybe how you know it was a good stretch of eating and drinking. Between Chianti hilltops and a bittersweet goodbye, here's what made my recent table time memorable.
We start in Volpaia, in the Chianti hills, at Ristorante La Bottega di Volpaia. Carla has been feeding people from this kitchen since the restaurant's origins in 1708, and the terrace view over the rolling hills is the kind of thing that makes you feel like you found a secret, even when you've been before. Traditional Tuscan cooking, excellent wine list, and that landscape. Reserve by phone only. Piazza della Torre 1, Volpaia (Radda in Chianti) | +39 0577 738001 | labottegadivolpaia.it | @labottegadivolpaia
A spicy octopus pasta at Hostaria da Fulvio in Oltrarno was one of those dishes that made me slow down mid-bite. Fulvio's place has a lively, candlelit energy, walls painted by a Florentine artist, and pasta that actually justifies the atmosphere. A neighborhood gem that deserves to be booked. Via Sant'Agostino 12, Florence | +39 055 013 5039 | @hostariadadafulvio
Then there was an aperitivo at a friend's home that is also a small business owner. Bellemille was on the table, and alongside it, the honey from Arma Herbs (@armaherbs). Simple ingredients, good friends, late nights, cin cin.
A quick glass of wine at Vineria 54 Rosso on Via San Gallo is one of Florence's most quietly satisfying things. The selection is thoughtful, the atmosphere is unhurried, the owners genuinely know their wines. Go in on a whim. Via San Gallo 54R, Florence | +39 055 389 1421 | 54rosso.it | @vineria54rosso
Carbonara at Osteria de' Peccatori near Piazza San Firenze. There are few more honest pleasures in this city than sitting outside here with a plate of pasta and a glass of house wine. Central, good-value, old-school in the best way. Piazza San Firenze 14R, Florence | +39 055 287462 | osteriadepeccatori.com
The final drinks at Soul Kitchen before they closed their doors for good. Via dei Benci, near Santa Croce, for over a decade. One of those places that quietly held a chapter of Florence for so many of us. It closed, and the city is smaller for it. Via dei Benci 34R, Florence (now closed)
A Margherita pizza at 'A Puteca is an exercise in restraint done well. This is Neapolitan tradition brought to Florence by the family of Carmine Calascione, a long chapter of the city's pizza story. Consecutive Gambero Rosso recognition for good reason. Book a table. Via Vincenzo Gioberti 170, Florence | +39 055 202 5712 | @aputecafirenze
The pear and cheese pasta at La Giostra on Borgo Pinti was actually a lovely surprise. Somehow, after years of living in Florence, this was my first time walking through the door. It's one of those restaurants that's so famous, so often recommended to visitors, that locals can end up never going. The pear and cheese pasta lived up to its reputation. The room is beautiful too, all candlelight and fairy lights strung across vaulted ceilings, the kind of atmosphere that makes dinner feel like an occasion. I will say, the bill made me raise an eyebrow. Overpriced, full stop. But if you're celebrating something or you just want to treat yourself, La Giostra is it. Borgo Pinti 16R, Florence | +39 055 241341 | ristorantelagiostra.com
And finally, the tagliolini with truffle at Il Nugolo. Michelin-recognized for a reason. I always return to Nugolo time and time again. This is precise, seasonal, quietly extraordinary cooking in a beautiful small room. If you've been sleeping on Il Nugolo, go now. Via della Mattonaia 27R, Florence | +39 055 094 4712 | ilnugolo.com | @ilnugolo
